Yokomo Mark X 275 - Update #4 Accessories

Slowly adding some detail. It's getting tougher.

I added, light buckets, splitter, mufflers and rear wing.

Top Line N Model +12 looking awesome. "RE-Xtreme Rays RE-86" Small Splitter from leftover lexan.

The rear image is also getting mad. I wasn't going to run a wing yet, but I just had to. A little purple on the muffler tips.

The red side looking good with chrome accents.

Going to be cool!

Yokomo Mark X 275 - Update #3 Paint

Well the paint is on.

Faskolor and tamiya are not friends of the paint world. But I did an OK job on this.

 Edges are not super clean, but in 1/10 scale anything close to a straight line is ok by me. I love the reveal moment.

I spent ages just playing with wheels. TE37SL suit this very well.

The Overdose Works are good too, but a bit blingy.

I've started adding the window frames and light transparent decals, but I'll let this paint dry really hard before mounting the magnets and light buckets etc etc.

Job list...

Edge cleanup.
Light buckets.
Mirrors
Number plate
Optional Wing.
Front splitter and side splitters
Tow hooks
Stickers  Stickers Stickers

Mounts
Fake interior( Shape, decals, cage )
Lights
Driver

Aaaaaaaaaagh. too many jobs.

Yokomo Mark X 275 - Update #2

Oh yeah! the MARK X is here and the project is definitely underway.

Sometimes people complain about the price of Yokomo gear, but for $45 I think this one is incredible value for money. This one is a great shape too. I love Yokomo quality, but the shapes are sometimes (FD3s) a bit long.

The accessories include, the long D1 wing. 2 mufflers and mirrors, perfect pre-cut masks and 6 decal sheets (many include chrome)!  I lashed out on the dark chrome light buckets for $5 extra. I also bought the Orido 86 wing to try, but it doesn't quite match this one.

You can see above that I also purchased new Overdose VS-KF in +7. They have a slight flange on the rim which means the tyres will only mount from the inside leaving 1mm of the wheel exposed. Nice!

But I am also going to run these HPI. the size is perfect for a 20inch Strong image. I'll be cutting these down to fit Yokomo R2 or R4 rings on them. Waiting for the red ones too.

Very cool!

Wheels are always a dilemma though. some suit a body colour and others don't.

 Compared the Overdose rims, these look downright small!

TE37SL still do an awesome job though.

Anyway, the paint work has started. I ended up doing this relatively freehand.

Next colour will be red, then white and finally black.

Still no word on sticker production. so it may not be finished for a while.

Shakedown Session

First test for the DIB275! First test for the insane S14 with it's additions.

 Well, I spent a little time on setup. I mean very little because with my initial settings it was spot on. The chassis is pretty much just as agile as my others. Maybe slightly less in transition, but negligible. I'm running 7 degree castor and 7 degree camber up front with a 2.0 FCD and 2.0 toe in and 4 degree camber on the rear. 3mm of anti-squat for a sliding chassis. 

Awesome. very happy with the DIB 275.



I also had to install my new Sanwa RX-471 receiver back into the Drift Package so now all 3 cars are up and running. DP, DRB & DIB 275.

I love this thing with all it's wings and attitude. My drift package is a BEAST!

RE-DIB 275 OD 2.0

RE-Xtreme Yokomo DIB 275mm Long Chassis is ready for shakedown. Take in it's glory.

First job today was to re-wire the Keyence Tachyon ESC. The space in the 275 with the short battery makes electronics so easy to place for a clean install.

 Nice and tidy.

I love how narrow I've been able to get it. I need a longer steering turnbuckle buckle.

I cant wait to try it out.

 Battery was just size. but difficult to slide in. so I raised the deck by a couple of mm with the only spacers I had. after that the belt was touching, so i had to get a little creative.

I've got a few belts to try, 1.5 and now 2.0. I plan to overdrive this a bit more. so I'll be adjusting a few more things in the future. Smaller pulley up front and larger one in the rear.

Yep it's long.

Mark X has arrived and will be trimmed soon.

a few surprises in store with this one.

DIB 275 Chassis Install.

275mm doesn't look much longer, but the amount of space it creates is fantastic.

Up front it's all the same... except the servo position. You will not, I'm still waiting for belts.

My driver is getting a drink. But he doesn't want to wait much longer.

Job List.

Install 2.0 Rear Axle and new belts.
Re-wire ESC with Keyence wire. The current wires are way too stiff and long.
Fasten the receiver to the side of the servo and attach the ESC to the chassis.

There is about 5mm of diagonal twist in the DIB 275. It's going to be interesting trying to tune the suspension for that. I imagine any setting will be kind of ok.

I found that the HPI battery mount from the DIB-RL can easily be installed for a lateral short battery position.

I am going to try these Magnetic Posts on the 275. I de-anodised a blue Team Active antenna post to match.

I polished my Yokomo Spanner in some downtime, still one of the most useful tools I have.

I should be able to get a very SLIM electronics position having moved the servo centrally.

But overall, it wont be long until test time.

ps. I did try to dye the SSG but it wouldn't take. So it remains silver.

Yokomo DIB/DRB Steering Belcrank Lock

Here is a simple mod for stopping steering issue with the DRB and DIB

Quite regularly, this screw will vibrate loose on the DRb or DIB. I am not a fan of thread lock on a screw that goes through a bearing as inevitably a little might find its way into the bearing itself.

So these parts are in question.


If the parts are already installed, then you need access to this location. maybe requiring loosening of the Bell Crank Stay from the Pulley Cradle.

I replace the 3x10 countersunk screw, with a 3x6 and add a 3mm "grub" screw to lock the top screw in position.

Tighten the 3x6 screw from the top as normal. Once the top screw is tight. Add the grub screw to the bell crank post and lock it tight. You can use thread lock on this as there is no contact with bearings.

I have never had to re-tighten my steering again.

This modification was not initially performed by me. So I can't take credit, but it works.