DRB-R 2 DRB-REW

The current test bed is due for an upgrade / side grade.

Starting with my current S14, underneath is a RWD DRB-R Rear Motor re-drilled Stock Chassis

It's pretty effective with ultra fast pivot around the central battery, in fact a bit too fast to be realistic.

For this machine, I'm converting it from DRB-R to DRB-REW spec using the original prototype chassis plates before sale. Any new owner will have a lot of options.

LOW CG is good for sideways yaw rotation and flat behaviour. In order to get the battery dead centre, the central bridge was modified.

The weight shift REW option changes the behavior of the chassis for a different feel. Both are effective.

Just need to re-install the servo for a test and tune. With the ESC mounted at the rear on the right side there's plenty of room to put your battery pretty much anywhere. With the Drift package wiper or an additional belcrank, you could even run a lateral or longdituninal battery.

Ahh, the options.

FULL TIME Rear Wheel Drive!

RE-Xtreme RC Checkpoint.

It's a good time to take stock of projects and directions.

3 of these will remain in my stable. The DRB-REW is proving an effective machine and is flexible enough to keep me busy trying things ... for a long time but I don't need 4.

RE-Xtreme Spec as always is Typhoon Silver, Samurai Red, Tsunami Blue. Ninja Black (3rd chassis) is a client build.

It took a year or two for the mainstream and myself to accept the gyro and the original FR-D conversions and FXX-D were based more around scale FR layout than ultimate performance, so the uptake of RWD was a bit hindered by trying to be somewhat too scale.  In a way they restricted themselves.

MST was really the driver of the RWD community outside Japan and pushed to new areas and others jumped on board..

Tamiya and HPI are still nowhere to be seen and probably wont even bother as their market is fool proof entry level 50:50 and will never change but that's ok.

Yokomo has been a little late to the RWD party but they have a solid approach. 

As everyone in Japan has a dori-pake, their Drift Package conversion ( basically a set of long wipers, knuckles , Lower Y arm and a gyro) is all you need to convert a DP to an effective RWD machine.

My RF Concept is just as effective in RWD config. I used MST front end and some leftover REW wiper extensions for front end lock.

The DP wipers were so effective, I made sure they were able to be used on my own DRB REW conversions.

An effective RWD is something most can slap together these days. Just like Counter-Steer, you still need those "Right" components to make it work but it doesn't have to be weight shift or rear battery etc they are just options.

In CS, we had to buy a one way bearing, upgraded front drive shafts, knuckles, and many usable CS pulleys and belts ratios to tune to your Circuit. 

So RWD is not really that different in that you need to buy a few things.

Whichever way you go, you can still have fun. I'll be bringing out the GCRC Demo van next time. Rear wheel Drive RF Concept Drift Package with engine sound and loads of extras.

Enjoy your RC.

DRB-REW Samurai Spec Build

Time to start my final DRB-REW build will Samurai Armour.

Every DRB-REW needs a donor. Long discontinued, the conversion set prolongs the life of the DRB and brings it into the RWD stage at the highest level.   This Second-hand donor was one of the original Black Bridge /  Red Alloy versions.

The CSG Carbon Surface Graphite twill chassis plate offers that little extra over the normal carbon style. Thick twill for impact adds a marginal thickness over the SSG Silver Surface Graphite. 

Depending on your Donor Chassis, You will need some extras. My additional parts chosen for this build are WUN VX front knuckles. I have recently sourced a Keyence Motor and a few other parts in preparation.

My purchased donor was already set for RWD, with some Overdose and Yokomo V2 parts.

Venom  Belt Drive allows normal motor direction.

The chassis spacers on the REW can be chosen as 2.5 or 5.0mm in various config. User choice is the Key to the Rear Evolution Weightshift depending on the grip level and smoothness of surface. 

 Basic assembly started. If you've been playing with your DRB in CS mode, construction is very similar to Yokomo.

Included longer screws replace the short screws of the normal DRB. the extra length required for chassis spacers. Carbon spacers for battery mount.

 Pretty soon, it starts to look like a Reversed High Traction DRB. I'm testing V2 and overdose uppers and V1 / WUN on this machine.

I didn't have a spare red diff. So I went with a temporary blue one for now. Using CS gears in the rear creates a rear wheel speed that's too fast for my course.

Almost ready for blast off. Central balance point for the battery. Easiest way to change pulleys with a non-overdose pulley mount is by removing the right side pulley mount. Removing all existing belt tensioner pulleys creates a clean chassis. 

 Venom 11-41 belt drive and 13-40 rear belt on this machine for 13.5T motor. Wide rear end for extra track and long stroke

Just need to tidy up the front end ackerman and links before electronics.

Twill Carbon camoflauge.

The Samurai will soon enter battle.

Bianca & Ms.Bianca

As if this Yokomo S13 + Addiction aero wasn't looking good, sometimes you want to show off a bit more.

underneath, her name is Bianca.

The Prince of Bling

This is RC Royalty. Gold and Purple have long been the royal colours.

 The MST RMX already has a large number of upgrades available but this machine goes a whole lot further. Some might call it RC Jewellery.

RMX... IFS, Reverse High Motor mount with venom and all alloy. Keyence and more. Decoration in the details.

For those unfamiliar with Max Speed Technology products, they have come a long long way in the last few years especially since the FXX-D and now with RMX and RRX. You can really consider them as a quality alternative.

This one takes it to a new level. 

DRB-REW Tune

There are always more than one way to achieve a result. 

 DRB-REW... Rear Evolution Weight-shift.

 Larger battery used with a stronger rear spring.

Black machine is using the older style front bulkheads.Wrap up next upper arms accomodatedby the REW Type C Towers and Support. Forward position arms with extensions providing the sweep. 

Silver REW using V2 front setup with Yokomo DIB and DP RWD parts. DP Long wipers providing an incredible range of sweep. Short battery used with a lighter rear spring. 

So do they handle the same? Well they have a very different feel to drive but on track results are remarkably similar.  Strengths and weaknesses to both.

The black machine is a little more rigid thanks to the V2 Hyper drive bridge and the black chassis is .15mm thicker. Rear setup is also quite different and gives a slight active camber traction advantage.

SSG lower plate... Alloy rear arms and geared drive.

CSG lower plate , plastic OD rear arms and Venom belt drive.

The same....not really... I think there are are about 30-40 differences between these two chassis. 

The most noticible is the trailing rear link suspension. Something inherited from a donor chassis.

Quite Effective.. You will notice a much larger contact patch on the rear tyres compared to the SSG chassis setup. Grip is up on this chassis, so I'm finding dialling more power to compensate.

Both cars running 7.5T which is about 40% too much. But I love the ability to blast at will. Never running out of the ability to break traction, even at higher speeds. But you have to control that power with finger restraint... hehe.

Loving the DRB-REW. Quite satisfied with my creation.  

MID WEEK builds REW + R32

It all starts with a bunch of stuff lying around.

And then there's the paint project you should have finished ages ago.

My last DRB started as an interesting machine. 1.3 cs SSG chassis and a unique JDM setup.

The disassembled machine had seen much work with scoffed alloy, and simply dirty base.
This is the risk of used machinery.

My Build started with a black base. and the front end received some Wrap Up Next parts

Kondo Custom
Wrap Up Next 
0150-FD Kondo Custom HD Apper Arm Ver.II 4mm Shaft (red part number used as blue unvailable) 
0101-FD Kondo Custom Y Arm Ver.III 3mm (Blue Part Number) 
0179-FD Kondo Custom GX front Knuckle Ver.II (Black Part Number)
0079-FD Smart Axle Shaft 

New Overdose OD2130 Ball End Set easily clears the knuckles on full extension.
then you need some ball studs etc.

 doesn't take long to build these days. Front end needs bolting up... Ackerman not set.

I was forced to use an old DIB steering setup. And Sanwa SGS-01D is my choice. But MST 2.0 is favored by others.

So the reverse Moon machine is almost ready. A single night paint means it's rough, but thats just how it should be. About a week from now, it will be covered in sticks to match the others.

Tired... Maybe a holiday...