RE-DRB 1.8CS SSG HT OD - Chassis

So I collected some missing pieces to finish off the DRB chassis. Basically I needed a Keyence long brush-less motor cable.

Above picture was a work in progress.

In my shakedown the other day, the esc and servo were on the same side. Not ideal for balance. So now I have everything where it should be. Left side has the Sanwa SRG-BL servo, centre has the Sanwa RX-461 Receiver and Right has the Keyence Tachyon ESC. I'll get it one the corner weight scales next time I'm at Max One to check how close it is.

I added a bigger battery release pin in blue to match the chassis and tidied up as best I could.

Eventually I'll re-wire some more things and change the battery plugs. I hate wires...

It's really small without the bumper at the moment.  I think it looks great!

Maybe I'll try and modify a rear street jam diffuser eventually for the rear, and a soft bumper up front, but right now it's pretty close to complete. Springs will be next. Longer and Softer. I might stick to white colour though.

I've mounted the Tamiya Super GT-D RX-7 which is a super small body. I added some Spice TE-37 SL in Bronze Metallic. More on these later.

RE-RX-7 @ MAX ONE

Big thanks to Kuni for making this. I love the slow mo!

It was a nice birthday present.

This is the D-Like RE-R CS 1.67 With CE-RX steering Keyence 7.5T Brushless and Sanwa MT4

RE-DRB 1.8 CS SSG HT OD - Shakedown @ Max One

Yokomo RE-DRB 1.8 CS Hogh Traction Overdose Shakedown @ Max One with Inital D Project D Takumi 7.

Of course the splitter is big and already broken where the original cracks in this old body were. but it's holding together well.

I'll start with the body. I originally tried it with 3mm Offset Advan RS wheels, but I couldn't see the black rims well. It's a problem at this dark course.

Because the DRB is not adjustable for wheelbase in the front, only at the rear, I had to trim the front wheel arches to allow for +9 offset clearance with 8 degree camber. The turnbuckles are at maximum position at the front and back. 

I could run +12 on the rear but for now this is ideal with the Top Line Moon N model Wheels

The RE-Amemiya style slashes look great with the SpeedHunters / RE-Xtreme / and G-Reddy logos. As this was just the shakedown for the chassis, The body posts are new and as yet untrimmed.

LED lights look great through the sleek lights but I may increase the opening angle for more illumination. But during mid-drift It looks AWESOME! The bright Yellow is great and easy to see exactly what the car is doing.

So how is the Yokomo DRB out of the box. I must say, very impressive! It feels a little different to the RE-R. Not as "punchy" but that's just gearing. I also have to use a little more brake and accel. But this is on the normal spring settings from Yokomo. The slow rebound pistons don't really work with these springs. The whole car needs to be softer for carpet. It tends to stay flat rather than bite into the corners.

But it's great. Everything simply works. I had a small issue with gear belt pulley (that wasn't tight) but after tightening the grub screw, it was ALL ok.

I was very tentative at first, but soon found it was easy to control and I was joining in the fun on a busy night.

At the end I was having fun in some tandem and triple and quad drifting. Crashes are fun too! Gomen Nasai.

So now I need to get some springs and then practice more. That is all. I didn't take any pictures of the chassis because it's not set up as I want it. I need a longer brush-less sensor cable before I show it.

I've updated the full build here -> RE-DRB

RE-DRB 1.8 CS SSG HT OD - Build

Here is the RE-DRB 1.8 CS SSG HT OD build in pictures.

This version is the Hyper Drive High Traction SSG Special with Front One Way included.

This includes. (translated from box)

SSG High Traction main Chassis and Upper Deck, Front and Rear Damper Stay
Hyper Centre Bridge and Centre Bulkhead
Titanium turnbuckle and Tie Rod Ends
Blue Aluminium front and rear bulkhead

Blue Aluminium Hyper Motor Mount
Aluminim Oil Shock

Front One Way Included.

But there was also a special offer inside the box.  a FCD gear set of your choice for free. I sent away and it arrived in two days.

So now there are these parts.

and the 1.8 cs drive pulley

Now everyone has been recommending these Overdose bearing C Hub and Camber steering knuckle set. Extra cost. But you have to replace the stock ones anyway for more castor anyway.

This is the new chassis.

Plenty of space for a large spur.

the first step in the build is the case chassis.

the battery holder is also included at this point. The clip will be replaced with something more useful soon or maybe just a tether will be added.

Rear adjustable bulkheads are next.

And it starts to take shape.

Next up is the main drive unit and motor mount. You need to start to use the CS belt at this point.

Because once it's on, maintenance becomes difficult.

This is the main drive close up. The cover for the spur is quite nice. but that will soon be replaced with a better size. There are still parts you need based on preference.

You end up with these. The rear rigid axle can be deleted at this point as the CS axle will be used.

So you get some leftovers early on in the build.

Note how the adjustment is done for initial tension.

There's a small spring and single ball under the crescent for clicking into position. Over designed maybe.

The front pulleys in place. main pulleys are both 15T

Next up are the ancillary hyper drive parts and servo parts.

these are the caps for the bulkheads which also hold the damper stays. Adjusting tension is going to be difficult once it's all together.

So with the belts in and the axles clamped, its smooth.

Next up is the secondary tensioner.

and steering which is also part of the main Hyper drive bridge.

It seems that everything in the DRB is interconnected which is clean for presentation, but not good for maintenance. Hopefully not too much is needed.

steering hangs under the bridge. The bridge binds all the chassis together.

Next is servo saver (the cheapest part of the kit.) I think an Overdose servo set will replace this.

More turnbuckles now installed for suspension setting.

These are the main parts in the suspension set.

These are the replacements and the parts to be replaced.

Front Set looks great. L and R are printed on these and they have nice machined sections.

Detail is nice.

So it's now looking like a chassis. Next up are the dampers.

Everyone hates building dampers because there's a lot of threads that are hard to grip and a lot of parts that get repetitive.

Exploded view... you can see I've already made the pistons.

These are Active Hobby slow rebound pistons for DRB. Actually they should be called high bound. Because in theory they are faster to compress than decompress.

Stock Springs are pink and black with two different weight oils front and rear. Maybe good for asphalt, but for carpet, springs are too hard.

Anyway, something for the future or target surface.

Simple snap on the base and one screw on the top mount. Easy.

The final bag in the set is #14 that's the bumper and posts.

unfortunately the front bumper is not thick enough to match the posts. so a drift package item will need to be purchased or replace the set. It's the only poor piece in this impressively easy build and it comes right at the end.

Anyway, chassis is complete so I'll walk you around the chassis in pics.

45 degree steering equipped with Overdose R88 C Cup set with ball bearing inserts. Yokomo High Spec drive shafts, Alloy wheel clamps and aluminium wheel nuts. Alloy dampers and titanium turnbuckles.

BD5 Spec one way drive pulley axle. SSG front and rear damper towers.

Hyper Drive Bridge and belt tensioner set. Spur gear has an a aluminium cover plate. All screws are Hex wrench.

SSG chassis can accommodate a large spur of around 92T Aluminium motor mount and servo mounts.

Note... you need to remove the pinion to remove the motor.

Rear pulley tensioner has no teeth to avoid slippage. lower suspension mounts are 0 deg front and 3.5 deg rear. Front is not adjustable for wheelbase. Rear is 3mm adjustable. High Traction chassis is quite small design at the rear.

Rear drive-shafts use the plastic cup system for reduction in play. Front one way cannot use this. Rear 1.8 FCD drive pulley and alloy axle is used in this build.

Battery holder incorporates an single Body Pin for release and two thick rubber bands for mounting.

Damper mounts are aluminium top and a ball end at the bottom.

So thats it. Finished. I hope you get an appreciation for the DRB. It is worth the money compared to many other chassis on the market. Buying a basic kit and upgrading it will cost more than the DRB.

That should be considered from the beginning.

So enjoy some more pics of the chassis with Top Line Jupiter DRS-10 Wheels. +9F and +12R