FR-D Vs MR-DRB-REW Scale Projects

When you are chasing scale, I guess at some point you have to try Front Motor / Rear Drive.

When I was living in Japan, I saw and drove over 50 different conversions in the development of CS 4WD Chassis.

But Why so many?

Front, Mid, left, right, central and Rear Motor;
Centre and rear Battery ;
inline, lateral , split pack Battery ;
Rigid, Flexible and Weighted Alloy Chassis ;

But Why?

Well, individuality is something that the Japanese do very very well.You could say the manufacturers were chasing performance, but ultimately they were chasing the niche market.

With so many different products on sale in a flooded market, How do you make yourself stand out?
 
In 2013 RWD really kicked off with the Wrap Up Next FR-D developed to take the 4WD Drift Package and turn it into something completely new. It came from a very solid perspective.

Realism. Not performance, Not Competition, but Realism.

In a way it was nice to see the likes of D-Like build their RE-R Hybrid because those guys embraced the weight shift mantra of making the chassis visually as dynamic as real cars as well.

The FR-D V3 incorporates a focus on weight shift so it's a natural for a scale looking machine.
My .RSG. DRB-REW performs very well and strikes that balance like the D-like RER.

So I'm in the process of preparing both. FR-D and another DRB-REW.

Big lock these days is easy to achieve. Wrap Up Next really have simple and flexible components.

Mimicking the real car look of D1 and even grass roots machines at big angle is awesome. 

High Battery or High Mount Engines are also common place conversions. The DRB-Layout is low enough for belt drive lovers to get the weight shift look.

This DRB is getting the Full Ninja Black on Black treatment, so parts were sent off to the anodisers today.

Should return like this... waiting makes time for more de-construction

Now is 2016 Mid Year...

It was really great to see the latest RWD competition at Pro Shop Shift based on Drift Trains and community rather than one out single winners.

It's something that we tried to build at GCRC and continue at GCRCD with Twin and Triple comps, Battle Train comps and other stuff.  The D1 Style Comp doesn't promote the same effect.

It takes away the need for outright speed and builds in the KDF Keep Drifting Fun mentality. Not everyone needs a million dollar chassis even if it's cool. You can still take the prize.  

Now that RWD Competitions are in place. We respect the people out there who only want one thing, and that is going flat out on huge open asphalt surfaces like Yokomo's Yatabe Arena. This is where YD-2 was developed. Have RWD cars become faster... Yes. Can they exceed the 4WD in many situations YES.

We know this because 2WD PAN car and 2WD Buggy are premier competition classes.

I haven't seen too many YD-4 sold so we can take it as progression that CS is definitely evolving into the RWD competition machine. And this is where Yokomo YD-2 has forgotten about scale and gone chasing speed and "RC" trophies.

That's not really my style.

I am more the scale modeller so I don't want to chose a single body shell only because it handles well.

THE Yokomo GP Sports S15 is THE one for that, but I will choose a Drift Body because it resembles a real car that I have owned or want to own.

So I am putting an FR-D into the RE-Xtreme stable with this V3 Weight Shift design and I'll be putting that front motor on show. 

FR-D = Front Motor, Rear Drive - Drift.

The FR-D is however a maintenance nightmare. Superfluous gears, hard to mount components.

Motor goes here,  first take everything apart!!!

   
Want to change ratio?  First take even more than everything apart!!!

A bit like working on a real car for an engine swap ... devote a day to any major change. 

But it all starts with a motor...

Should it behave like a Torquey V8 21.5T or Revving Torque-less Rotary 8.5T, I usually tend towards the free revving option.

So a nice lightweight Active Hobby shaft installed also.

Wrap Up Next steering already showing capable ackerman action.

The rear end will get some more upgrades or side-grades for looks rather than performance.

New rear end is good for maintenance.

It will take more than a few weeks for both these projects to be tuned for action.

Target body is PAB-120 Trueno

FD Missile V3 at Gold Coast RC Raceway.

High Power FD3s debut at Australia's Gold Coast RC Raceway.


Not only have I been redecorating my body-shells recently. I've just finished decorating the GCRC barriers. It's been a long process to cover 200 meters of barriers. But tonight I added the final GCRC Gold Coast RC Raceway logos.

So before the barriers are in the state of disrepait that my fd is, I thought I'd better photograph the contrast.

The FD is now in Version 3 Spec. the Pandora RC original bumper bent into shape nicely to match the speed way pal fenders. A custom splitter attaches nicely. I didn't bother to clean up the excess shoe goo yet.

While the body is not in good condition, It certainly has character. The MST wheels +11 suit this perfectly.

Underneath, there's still a whole heap of adjustment on this chassis to go. It's relatively old school tuning for me as far as the drift master is concerned.

The exposed gearbox and slide rack provide the points of interest. Apart from the chassis plates , shock towers and gearbox bulkheads that define the Drift Master version of the drift package, there's nothing else that is original Drift Master.

CS 3.4 comes from front and rear gearset changes. alloy arms for suspension and adjustable ride from Kazama tops. Slide race steering and most 

But as with any drift package. It's reliable as shaft drive machines can be and it just works. 

With about 150000 other parts available for the drift package, you never know where this will end up. But for now, it's pretty much done.

all thats left is a little tweaking and lots of battles.

GCRC DP-DM FRI-DEBUT

Finally got the Shaft Drive Drift Package Drift Master on track.

CS 3.4 from the shaft drive machine is about the maximum possible without major component change.

 I think you will agree that this amount of CONSTANT lock through the corner is only possible with a large amount of CS.

The chassis can hold this kind of angle all day.

If you try this using a stock Drift package the front wheels will be straight 90% of the time. Bine are at 45 degrees when ever I have the car hanging out.

High Speed looks awesome.

low speed equally so.

Big thanks to my photographer. 

These images of the 2000GT look amazing, but it's the chassis that makes these images possible. Being able to place the car where it needs to be is the key.

I'm going to enjoy this shaft drive machine.

RE-DPi-R Typhoon Spec R

The Drift Package Imadoki is very nice conversion. The narrow chassis would actually work well as a touring car chassis.
 

I finally de-anodised the remaining components to complete the  Typhoon Spec.

Thus leaving the shine on the whole chassis. Matching a new Acuvance Tachyon Airia and 21.5T motor.

The newer Sanwa receiver I installed was not compatible with the gyro I recently installed... so that means more gyroless tuning until I swap some components around.


Today I found a pretty good balance. As long as I don't push too hard. gyroless lapping on a small track is no problem.




So... I've re-started the long process of rear wheel drive setup testing mm by mm and countless configurations for balance. Narrow, full width, soft, hard who knows what I will settle on.


But the chassis looks awesome and will make a great base as tuning completes. The previous owner of these chassis plates decorated them nicely so I'll keep it that way.

RE-DP-DM Almost RTS "Ready to Slide"

The Drift Master is almost ready, check a few more details.

The rear has been complete for some time.

2.0FCD at the rear. Team Suzuki Arms. Kazama topped shocks and SS universals are gonna make this zing zing.

Last week, my slide rack arrived for the front. Because of the narrow mounting point for steering on the DP-DP, I devised a little plan. I lowered the steering as much as I could and drilled some new holes for the mounting position.

This Drift Package Drift Master is going to stay as 3.4CS. the front spice gear set providing the max setting for shaft drive. I don't need any more steering than this. I'm already maxed out on the CVDs and there is still more flexibility in the rack.

 So I just need the servo saver installed for steering operation.

And then receiver and Keyence Tachyon ESC /  taped in for some testing to start with the New Luxon KG 10.5. gogo!

GCRC Sunday Session

 wos wong? wos wong?

this is what is wrong. I like a lot of brake in my DRb so my belts don't last a long time. Even this RC926 4mm item is not strong enough for my abuse. haha. This is regular maintenance.

I have a spare but rather than waste time changing it out.

I fired up the Drift Package. Boom! I love the shaft! But it's not really meant for tight tracks.

And I did a little testing....

Verdict... all these tyres are the same. HDPE Kazama Premium, HDPE RC926, HDPE RCArt Derive, HDPE Topline Moon.

Hard Street Jam (a little soft so they don't hold their shape with O-Ring installation and I've also had them split apart also.)

もちろんパーツが日本から。ね\OoO/!

I got some finishing touches for the Drift Package, TN Racing rear Toe Block and some Overdose Rear Hubs
(note to dummies like me, Overdose Rear Hub bearing width is not compatible with Type C or Team Suzuki drive shafts)

RC Art Derive Tyres in Hard for asphalt and Soft for concrete. Although the soft maybe better where I run.

I got these Top Line Matt Black rims last time. 

I thought I'd give them a whirl trying out my new Kazama tyre changer. Easy!

My DRB has been getting a bit of use. I'd better order some maintenance parts for it.

I'm still very happy to support the Japanese makers and shops directly.

Super Rajicon, RC Champ and RC-Art suppliers of Yokomo, Tamiya, Overdose, TN Racing, Top Line, Square, Mikuni, Pandora, Wrap Up Next, Accuvance, Sanwa, M's, Street Jam, Speed Way Pal, Speed Works, Team Bomber, Uras, Vertex and more. 

The only things I have bought in Australia have been over priced Tamiya PS paint, low quality batteries and Shoe Goo.

RE-Xtreme RE-DP Typhoon Spec "R"

 OK. Time to checkpoint this plastic bucket of RWD. I call it Spec "R"

I guess there have been a few modifications during the build of this machine.

 So I guess I'll start at the front.

Lower Arm replaced with Wrap up next Y arm TN Racing Extension and Traxxas ball joint.
Upper Arm replaced with TN Racing mount, Custom Upper and Traxxas ball joint
C Hub replaced  with Kazama DRB knuckle (modified)
Kazama Knuckle Kingpin position
   Upper : Inner position 5 
   Lower :  Outer position 2
Dog bones removed.
One way removed.
Gear case modified.
Team Suzuki Type 2 Belcrank steering arms extended with Team Suzuki Damper mounts
Custom Ackerman bar with + 2mm wider mounting point.
Overdose Servo Saver for Tamiya.
SSG Shock Tower.
Aluminium Shock Mount
TN racing Lower shock mount extension
Yokomo SS length Shock
Oil 600
Active Hobby Slow rebound piston
RC 926 hybrid spring.1.3 Soft / Med
RC 926 3mm hub with Alloy Wheel (+15g each) offset +11 (effectively +9)

Front Carpet Tyre Spice HDPE.
Front weight ZERO

Sanwa SRG-BL Brushless Servo 0.8s

Keyence Tachyon ESC with Silver 14G wire.Keyence Luxon KG 7.5T "Street Jam Version" with Active Alloy endbell
HPI Spur 86T
Yokomo Pinion 20T


Short Battery Pack
Side Weight 60g

Yokomo motor mount, modified for spur clearance
Yokomo 4wd input shaft shortened.
Yokomo Strong Solid Axle with Steel End caps and alloy centre.
Yokomo Standard plastic gear set.
Overdose 44/2 rear drive shaft

Active Hobby Link Suspension (including Alloy lower arm)
Yokomo DRB rear knuckle (requires shimming)

SSG Shock Tower.
Aluminium Shock Mount
Lower Ball Joint Shock Mount
Yokomo SS length Shock
Oil 200
Normal Yokomo 3 hole piston
RC 926 hybrid spring.1.3 Soft / Super Soft
RC 926 3mm hub with Alloy Wheel (+15g each) offset +11 (effectively +9)

Rear Carpet Tyre: En Route

Rear Weight 250g
Street Jam OTAR31 Rear Diffuser.

I'm debating a carbon chassis at the moment but I'm actually pretty happy with how this plastic bucket functions. To upgrade the remaining plastic components would cost about $620. I think that's a bit much.
Total spend to date has been around $300 for the rolling chassis only. Most upgrade parts were already purchased on a second hand chassis.

So I guess this is the final spec for a while. It's functional.

the 2 main things for Rear Wheel drive are front steering speed and rear traction.

As you can see, the steering angle is ... enough.

In both directions.

Steering speed is very fast. It is hard to be pin point accurate with out a gyro. This is the main reason I will install a gyro in the future. It will make it smoother.

As you'd expect with ball joints on upper and lower arms, geometry isn't exactly perfect. There is a lot of play in the setup.

Castor is around 8~10 degrees.
Camber is around 10 degrees when running straight. These Spice tyres accept generous camber.
Toe is close to Zero.

Rear Link suspension creates less camber under squat conditions and tries to take advantage of chassis roll.
Keeping the tyres flatter on the contact patch.

These En Route tyres have a flatter contact patch and I run around 5 degrees rear camber that negates to around 3 degrees under compression.

I try to keep around 5mm ride height to allow the chassis to pitch and roll for smoother weight transfer on carpet and more traction under accelleration.

Here is the body for my Rear Wheel Drive project. 

Clearance is NOT an issue.

I think I have around 1mm clearance without any scrubbing.

Front width is around 205mm. but camber adds more or less as stance is selected.

I've mounted the FD further forward on the chassis by 3mm then covered this by positioning the fenders rearward. This helps the diffuser line up 

The wheels are effectively only at maximum angle for short periods of time. But you can certainly notice when they are.

 You can get some serious angle.

But normal corners still look the same.

 Thanks for reading.

Russ.

ps. Small upgrade... front turnbuckle.