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Kamis, 14 April 2016

RE-Xtreme RC Drift Bible - Basic Buyers Guide




Basic Guide to buying an RC Drift Car


Entry Level 4WD 50:50

·         Easy to Drive

·         Ready To Run anywhere

·         Target is Asphalt Streets

·         Upgradable Entry Point

Most out of the box ready to run drift cars are designed for high grip street running and aimed at beginners. Most are 4WD with an equal 50:50 split between the front and rear wheels.

Asphalt surfaces like most streets are where everyone starts. Because this is high grip. Full throttle application is mostly the use. The tyres will wear out quickly and run time is relatively short. Plastic is often the best on these surfaces as stones and debris can scrape the bottom of the car. Plastic can also absorb more impact that alloy, which will bend or break.

Flexible plastic chassis do not react much to suspension tuning. And most people don’t tune these stock cars. Because of the 4WD nature, the front wheels are often pointing straight once a drift is initiated and the weight, high speed and power will keep the slide.

Built to a price point, these are fun entry level drift machines. But they are always the source of upgrades to new directions.


The Next Level - 4WD Counter Steer (CS).

·         Customise Ratio and Setting to suit surface

·         Requires custom mechanical parts

·         Tricking 4WD to Replicate RWD

As you start to chase realism in RC drift, speeds come down, battery life goes up and the need for sustained steering angle is a must. By changing a few components on your 50:50 drift car you can add more opposite lock to you driving style. Very few drift cars are Counter Steer OTB, but by changing pulleys and gears the front wheels can turn slower than the rear, you can create an imbalance in the 4wd power split up to 3:1 between the rear and front wheels. This helps the rear of the car slip while the front retains grip to steer. = More slide and More Grin. 

A One-Way bearing can be used to make cool handbrake slides a possibility without all 4 wheels locking under brakes. Also more steering angle is required (about 45-55 degrees) One negative is that you may lose the ability to drive straight and quick hands become a necessity to catch the slides.   For about 8 years, CS has been the main RC drift car for high level users. Good Solid Fun but specific setup suit different surfaces

Needed : CS Ratio Kit, One-Way, Steering & optional CVD depending on brand.


The New Direction Scale RWD RC Drifting.

·         Real Scale RWD

·         Requires custom mechanical and electronic parts

·         Easy to setup for different surfaces

Only really gaining momentum in the last 2 years. RWD has quickly established itself as a force and the future direction for RC Drift. OTB there are still few drift chassis available. But more are now coming and there are many conversion kits on the market.  For RWD you need to remove some components from a 50:50 but also add electronics and the ability for more steering.

The key to RWD is an Electronic Gyroscope. Much like RC Helicopters, it’s almost impossible to make the infinite tiny adjustments to balance your machine by hand. In a drift car the Gyro acts like a steering rack to slow the servo but also keep the servo in the correct position to prevent spinning. This is very similar to how a real car reacts when you let go of the steering wheel in a change of direction. Driving straight and at reduced angle is also possible. The most flexible for setup.

With only 2 wheels providing forward power, typically these cars are slightly slower equalling a bit more scale speed (depending on surface grip) and the angle is similar to what real machines achieve at different speeds. Low Grip slower surfaces like GCRC require more steering up to 75 degrees but this is equal to Formula D and D1 cars.

Needed : Gyro, front Steering Arm & front Knuckle upgrade depending on brand.

Summary:

It’s possible to start at any point. Whichever you choose.  Once you become accustomed to the driving behaviour and settings all drift cars can be fun and exciting.

Sabtu, 01 November 2014

Chassis Track & Body width.


How wide is wide? 180mm? 220mm?



I faced a dilemma with the Gemini body. 180mm is very far from my comfort zone.


You can really see the difference. The De-Anodised DRB is for the Rocket Bunny 86. and the red DRB is for the Gemini. As you can expect tuning will be different.


I usually run +9 or +12 offset rims on bodies with wide fender conversions so going back to a stock body required a few firsts.


The Rocket Bunny 86 and RWB 993 that i have share the same layout. +12 rim on 3mm hub up front and +12 rim on 8.5mm Hub with 1.5mm spacer at the rear. I usually compromise the chassis setting a little to achieve fit and finish.



Apart from having to trim the front bumper support to clear the super short front overhang, the rim selection for the Gemini requires +1 offset possibly +2. No more No less. So potentially I can get away with +3 rim with a 3mm HUB.

I currently running a set of Street Jam reversible +1/+10 rims to create the right image and fit.
I also have a set of CE28N that will be used also.


 Setup for GCRC has us all settling on about CS 2.5~4.0 with 3.2 being the norm.

My Gemini runs the RED DRB tuned to CS 3.0. I'll be changing the pulley configuration soon, but ratio will remain the same. Just the way the ratio is created will be different.  


My favourite chassis is still my ultra predictable CS 2.2 DRB. It will soon have my own brand chassis.

Minggu, 28 September 2014

CS 5.0 Training.


I haven't really spent much time setting up the 5.0, so today I found a quiet spot and tuned a bit.


One thing you might want to try when setting up a car is running some marked wheels like this.   The target is to get to get the fronts not moving too much. Hence the reason for 5:1 rear bias and why I also run a tiny pinion and large spur. that allows you to control how much wheel rotation you have.

One revolution of the front is five revolutions on the rear wheels.


Even on the slightest throttle, the rear is spinning up and the front remains slow. After driving this for a while then switching back to CS 2.2, the angle and amount of lock required is vastly different. You have to learn to drive again.


With the throttle EPA on about 60%, I'll be removing the 7.5T from this machine and going to the 10.5T again to spread the rev range.


While it's fun to drive with masses of power, the energy is mostly wasted on a slippery surface like this, so soon there will be more tuning to come. I've also moved back to +9 rims from previous +7. My DRb settings like this size.

Jumat, 03 Mei 2013

DIB Setting Sheets



 OK. I put in a couple of hours to translate most of the DIB setting sheet.



Blank setting sheets are available below. Click for larger printable image.

Tsunami Blue Version
 
Typhoon Grey Version

Samurai Red Version.
Click for full size.

The DRB version is on the site here.

Senin, 12 Desember 2011

Drift Package - Test


Adjusted servo direction, set up the throttle position

Camber etc 10deg camber 7 castor rear 4 deg. behaves normally.

... on a side note, I set up a drift package for a friend, and I tried the Kazama rental drift package. They aren't so bad. You don't really need these pricey chassis for fun. You just need to learn how the chassis works.

If you are going to upgrade your drift package, spend your money in this order.
1. FCD 1.5~1.8 and quick steering arms like Team Suzuki and good dampers.
2. Brushless Motor and Speed Control with adjustable neutral braking, braking and power application, like Keyence.

This might be enough to satisfy and you'll find yourself on par with top guys if you learn to setup your chassis.

There are still guys in Japan at the top level running lightweight Drift Package chassis with good power and electrics.

A new chassis won't make you better. The ability to control human inputs like power, steering and braking will definitely help you improve. Chassis is sometimes the first purchase, but think twice.

I think that's the key. Find a consistent chassis and spend time on setup. It's a pain, but it's needed.

Have fun.



Rabu, 30 November 2011

D-Like RE-R Setting @ Max One


This is the path from frustration to fun! Learning to drive @ 1.7 Counter Steer and new settings and a new wheel radio all at the same time. Yes it took some getting used to, but It was worth it.


I checked the setting with the F.Dorsche and then once it was dialed in I switched to debut the Surging 200mm Celica Supra XX... It is AWESOME!


I swapped the springs to give more rear grip on this track, super soft in the rear for here. It seemed to find a sweet spot for me. There's a little more adjustment in it. maybe some more neutral brake I can dial in, but for now I've got a consistent package I can really attack with.


This shot is AWESOME! It really shows the colors as intended.


I was getting a lot more angle right from the start with the 1.67 and over rotation was an issue, so I dialed in 10 degrees camber up front and a bit more rear grip with the super softs springs and it helped a lot.


The radio is awesome too. Smooth and direct. I can feel a small difference, but not so much. The telemetry is cool I guess, but a bit of a gimmick. I got up to 7500 RPM on the spur. The telemetry logger graph is interesting. On a big circuit you could use it to check gear ratios etc.  


But it's good to show people your blip blip throttle input.


Anyway, I put in about 2 hours on track and by the end I was getting into some great tandem action. I have really found the point where I can play with the big guns. I'm not so nervous than I'm going to slow people up. I'm trying to get side by side, run inside and keep a good line.


So what does it take. Patience, Help and Practice (and a little money).



Near the end of the session I put these new TE37 on for a change. The size really suits these older cars but I still love the Panasports on this car, the color is great.


So I am more than happy now. I'm ready to rock hard for a long time. Just a few more small things to go.

Selasa, 29 November 2011

D-Like RE-R - Under the hood! Part #2


Next step in the upgrade process was springs. I already had the Yokomo aluminium set so I needed some better spring rates.


I went for this combo for now. Long springs 29mm for better travel and they required some 2mm lower seats. More blue alloy is good!


Front are HSS Long Shock Spring "Black" --> Super Soft


Front are HSS Long Shock Spring "Yellow" --> Soft

More to come in Part 3.

D-Like RE-R - Under the hood! Part #1


Lets check the latest upgrades to my D-Like RE-R... under the hood. Part 1.

I feel I've been on a big learning curve with this D-Like RE-R chassis. Instead of the pinion spur / crown pinion sets, the belt ratings and CS% is hard to work out. And more so, finding a sweet spot that is more FR than 4WD is difficult.


Previously I had upgraded from the stock 40/14 14/40 50:50 setup to the 40/14 20/36. This was done to keep the stock belt set and as suck resulted in CS around 1.5 with the Yokomo one way front axle.


That setup was fine, but it was still a bit 4wd in nature (especially mid corner) and the stupid plastic rear gear had derailed a couple of times, so I decided to go close to what others are running and settle for the 14/40 20/32. The D-like rear pulley is a nice piece of kit, but is quite pricey.


But it had o be done.



I'm quite happy with the result so far. Here is the ARD rear axle and the Pulley before install.


the adjuster is underneath for battery clearance.

These 20T are quite popular so finding a matching set is proving a waiting game.

Next step Shocks.

Minggu, 13 November 2011

Keyence TAO


Today I picked up a controller for my Keyence Tachyon ESC and Luxon KG motor setup.

I can gain access to more settings that the stupid button combinations on the ESC itself.

It just makes sense and its easy to use. Just connect the RX cable.


I got the SR (shine Red) because it should be easy to find in my RC box. Also came with a reflective strap.

Manual is here.



I'm going to be putting together an option set for purchase so stay tuned. The best from Japan!

Rabu, 02 November 2011

Max-One Setting.


 I headed down to Max-One Tokyo for the after-noon to do some practice. I'm still getting the hang of this setup, so the FD-RWB-Porsche-RX7 whatever took some more beating. the splitter is just about gone now.  HAHA.


But I must say, this happened in the first 20 minutes as I reacquainted myself with the track. After that is was fun fun fun.


Some of the local guys inspected my car as the spur gear ( which was 1/2 destroyed on another FD I have from mounting it too low ) was making a groan from poor mesh. So they helped me out with a new one and suggested another size better suited to my car. It now gives a lot more punch and a lot more control.


I'm getting the hang of the RE-R and the track, but I've got a long way to go before I get the ten person drift chain happening without error. On a fresh battery, it's too twitchy I have to be careful, but after 5 minutes, I get into a zone where it's very easy to control for a long period, then it drops off.

Pretty happy.