RE-Xtreme Rotaries!

The FC is back to stay.

Recently, I've been returning to the rotaries.

This body I made in early 2012 is still looking damn cool. Inspired by drift legend Asamoto-san and the Pan Speed team, it received the time attack livery with masked and painted colour and also custom decals.

With some new paint on the Speed Way Pal rims. I installed the body on my Drift Package with some old body posts. (the posts will change to velcro soon) 

 I put a lot of work into this one, and I think I will hold onto it for a while longer.

With the FD also completed, I'm looking forward to using these a bit more.

unfortunately I can't drive both at once.

But I can vary my chassis these days depending on who is running.

FD is the DRB Typhoon 1.5 has now been increased to 1.8 again, FC is Drift Package 2.0

 Which would you drive?

In some ways the FD should be wearing the Pan Speed livery and the FC wearing the missile theme.

But that may be a future plan. who knows how long these bodies will last. I don't crash too often these days so bodies tend to last a lot longer than they used to.

RE-Xtreme Deck

There's always something going on around here.

These top deck skate boards have become quite popular and guess what?... 1/10 scale. . I picked one up the other day.

WWF figures are also well sized for RC dioramas.

Maybe I'll have to make a real one!

Shock ReBuild

Shiny and new. Lets check how to renew your yokomo shocks.

Here is how they started. leaking and sad. Dark alloy and spongy with unknown oil.

 So I took them apart ready for new oil and o-rings and maybe bladders.

My favourite tool. Every modeller should have one of these.

Because look at the results.... metal polish these and they shine beautifully.  Clean every thread!

I use the BD5 twin o-ring and short guide. The black guide and blue o-ring has a lot of play. Without going to the overdose high precision kit. I think this is a little better for keeping the oil inside.

I also protect my pliers for the next step.

When screwing on the ball end, try not to grip on the shaft. If you have to, use a soft grip as the shaft slides through the o-rings and guide any damage can stop the smoothness of your shock.

I take some measurements to make sure the sizes are the same.

You don't want one longer than the other. If you can replace the lower ball caps if loose.

ready to fill up. make sure all your oil is free of bubbles. make sure the piston is pushed up and down many times slowly to get all the air out of the oil. top up to overflowing.

One bladder was damaged, so I replaced that as it had gotten caught in the thread on last assembly.

When the cap is going on of course the excess oil will be pushed out. just clean it up.

Then test the dampers a few times. If the speed the dampers extend is not the same, try re-assembly. It could be a pocket of air in there or something misaligned when putting on the cap.

Measure your springs and keep left and right the same heights while setting the ride height. Just like a real car with corner weights (it would be nice to have 4 small scales), if your chassis is totally one-side heavy then this would be the only real time you should need to run different left to right.

After this it's drive time for final setting. you shouldn't have to move them too much.

If you find you are compressing your springs a lot, maybe it's time to try a different tension.

RC Photography Guide

Ever wondered how to get that special shot? Practice.

Whats wrong with this picture?

Not too much, but the glass and body are white. You can solve this with a polarizing filter. (if you have one)
the pandora windows are not clear, so I actually want the white on the screen.

Why is the front wheel in focus and the rear wheels not?

The depth of field ( F stop ) is set very low. Use F4 or lower number to get this effect. Higher numbers  for full focus.

If you have an Aperture Priority function on the Camera, use it.

Get down low. Don't be afraid to lie down. Scale height of 1m is 10cm.

Alternative is to put the car on a hill and shoot from below.

Don't be afraid of your zoom.

this photo is about 5meters from target. In scale terms thats about 50 meters. So use stand back and use your zoom If you are too far back, just crop the image on the computer.

How can I fit the spoiler in the shot?

Try different angles to include or omit detail. If this image were flat, the wing would be out of frame.

Be careful of details like bricks and trees. they really effect the scale of your background. Unless your trees are Bonsai.

Here is my shoot location. I hid the door handle behind the body.

This image is what most people do. so come come on... get creative.

RE-Xtreme FD3s - Return

FD3s... RE-turn. 

I started RC drifting at a time when my real cars were RX-7s and there will always be a soft spot for the FD.  So I thought I'd ditch the 86s for a while and get back to what I really enjoy.

I mounted the FD3s back on the DRB and I had this Max Orido 86 wing to add that proportion on the rear.

The Pandora body has it's shape issues. the sides are too deep and the body itself is too wide,

I wonder when that BN Sports FD will be released.

Old School wheel sale. - SOLD

I don't have any more old school shells so these are up for sale.

Old School Drift Wheel Set.


$50AUD + approx $7AUD Postage within Australia

Speed Works  +12 offset Watanabe Gold 

Speed Works  +12 offset Watanabe Black

Street Jam STWRH10 麗心愚破亜斗  Offset +10 

Street Jam STWT010B　 鉄ﾁﾝ ｵﾌｾｯﾄ10 黒 Street Jam Steelies Black　+10

RE-DIB 275 Test Spec 2.3

 Check out the CS 2.3 style. https://vimeo.com/62488426




 I had a 13T pulley and a tensioner lying around, so what should I do?

Lets go 2.3 CS and see what happens. 40===12 --15===20

It's almost like Yokomo expected this, as the hole is in the right spot. I'm using a 3mm spacer under an RC Square Tensioner mount with RC square red hardware on the 12T free tensioner pulley. belt is still normal size.

I have an 18T for the rear which could potentially give 2.77 but (belt length becomes and issue. )for now, I think this is enough.



Pretty nice. holds opposite lock pretty well.  Still hard to set up a DIB, to vague in the damper response.

RE-Xtreme RE-DIB 275 SSG OD Samurai Spec 2.0

 RE-Xtreme RE-Series Yokomo DIB 275mm Silver Surface Graphite Overdose Tune Samurai Red Version Spec 2.0 Counter-steer.

RE-Xtreme RE-DIB 275 SSG OD Samurai Spec 2.0

Chassis:
Yokomo DIB Silver Surface Graphite "SSG" Red Version Chassis Kit
Yokomo DIB Silver Surface Graphite "SSG" 275mm Long Chassis Conversion Kit
Yokomo Lunsford Titanium Turnbuckles
Yokomo Polished Alloy Ball joints
Model Garage Stainless Steel Screw set
Yokomo Red Alloy Alloy Steering Knuckle set.
Yokomo Red Alloy 7deg Alloy C Hub Carrier.
Yokomo Alloy rear Hub 0 degree 
Yokomo Red Alloy rear Sus Bar 2.0 degree
Yokomo Red Alloy Front Bumper Weight
Overdose Red Alloy Servo Saver Arm
Overdose Red Alloy Spur Holder
Active Silver Antenna Holder
RE-Xtreme Steering pin update.

RC Square 44mm CVD and long axle
Yokomo Red Alloy Front Bumper Weight
Yokomo Red Alloy Front one way
Yokomo Red Alloy FCD gear set 2.0  (current)
 Yokomo SS dampers - Red Alloy
unknown brand Yellow Spring Set (To be changed)

Power
Keyence Tachyon White Carbon
Speed Passion Dokyo10.5T Brushless Motor
Keyence Black Motor Wire
Spur 84
Pinion 26


Turnigy nonotech 4.2 short battery (inline rear position)

Control
Sanwa MT-4 and RX 461
Futaba S9550 Servo 

Twin rear belt Stabiliser, Upper deck rasid 2mm, rear RF mount raised 3mm.