Basic Wheel Offset Solutions

Hey there... Lets look at some wheel solutions for that perfect "Stance".

How can I stuff the biggest/deepest rims under my rc body? the answer is always three fold; Tyre Sidewall/profile, Offset and Camber.

While some people don't like the latter, I am a proven believer that an rc "drift" chassis can run just as well with a lot or a little.  Anyway...

If you don't know the offset, just pad the spacers in the rear until the match the hub.

A 1/10 RC wheel is 52mm diameter and 26mm wide.

in RC

0 offset is actually a hub face of 5mm from the outside edge (usually) but these days it's better to measure 21mm from the back as different lips are being added.

0 offset allows 5mm for the hex nut to be fitted and still remain flush with the wheel rim.

the material around the center hole is usually 2mm thick. so lets check

far right is a Yokomo Drift Package Enkei NT-03  OFFSET +3 which is usually pretty stock on Yokomo.
there is a 16mm spacer to the rim flush +2mm of hub = 18mm .... 21mm-18 = OFFSET +3 or

5mm +3mm = actually 8mm to the hub face.

Track will increase 3mm each side over the Offset 0 wheel.

get your width of spacer again to the inside rim 

this white top line wheel is Offset 12.
there is a 7mm spacer to the rim flush +2mm of hub = 9mm .... 21mm-9 = OFFSET +12

the silver M-type wheel is offset 10 but it has an extra 1mm lip making it 27mm wide.

there is a 9mm spacer to the rim flush +2mm of Hub = 11mm .... 21mm-11mm = Offset+10
If you calculated this from the outside face lip it would be different.

Offset 0
Offset +3 Track will increase 3mm each side over the Offset 0 wheel.
Offset +12 track will increase 12mm over an Offset 0 wheel. 24mm total, this makes things more stable, so Settings need changing as this will also effect spring rates as the pressure on a wider location will change.

If you need more to fill say a 200mm body then add some spacers
or

I love those wheels but they are the wrong offset. ... the simple answer is spacers. The RC square spacer system runs from 4mm to 8mm with thick and thin shims that optionally screw together for strength and they are clamp hubs for good setting on the drive shafts. I thoroughly recommend this. You can go wider easily and adjust within 0.5mm. 

If you want to go narrower. There are a few 3mm spacers on the market from RC926 etc, but sometimes the shaft still only accepts 4mm, so you have to drill the wheel slightly. Also the wheel hub may touch your suspension so be careful. usually 4mm is the standard minimum.

For intermediate level users, increasing track width and scrub radius should start to be considered in setup.

As usual effecting one thing changes many others. so getting that exact look, may change chassis behavior. 

This is an example of my setup for my FC. At full compression the body is sanded to allow a almost zero gap to the tyre. It never rubs even as suspension arc rises. 4mm hub and +9 wheel with RC926 tyre.
This tyre has a round sidewall so I cant get any wider.

If I run Yokomo R2 in this config, there is no way they fit. +6 is about the best I can do as the sidewall is MUCH higher.

So sidewall is important and companies like Street Jam and RC-Art offer 60 degree and 45 degree stretch look tyres. so you can get an extra mm without touch.

These are  Kazama FXR +10 which are 1mm wider than the Top Line +9. Still no touch.

Then recently there are wheels from overdose, M's and topline that give more poke with an exposed rim.

These M's M-type +10 @ 27mm wide give an extra 1mm (only on the outer edge.) for a wider impression.

FXR +10 with Street Jam 45 degree + 7 degree camber


I also run about 7degree of camber on the reargiving about 3mm of extra clearance. (note a crazy 13deg on the front) all these things effect many other components like drive shaft length and turnbuckle lengths etc so changing camber can only go so far with stock components.

note** asphalt tyre wear is flat for full contact patch. On carpet you need to choose the tyre that best matches your camber and castor settings with more scrutiny.

M-type +10 with Street Jam 45 degree + 7 degree camber

There is still a gap for suspension compression.

You could simply buy a wider body, but we all want that perfect look and performance. sometimes they aren't compatible, but we try our best.

You can also look into adjustable suspension arms and knuckles to push wheels out or in to maintain track.
there are lots of products (like Active Hobby) on the market these days.

Russ.

 

RE-DIB 275 Test Spec 2.3

 Check out the CS 2.3 style. https://vimeo.com/62488426




 I had a 13T pulley and a tensioner lying around, so what should I do?

Lets go 2.3 CS and see what happens. 40===12 --15===20

It's almost like Yokomo expected this, as the hole is in the right spot. I'm using a 3mm spacer under an RC Square Tensioner mount with RC square red hardware on the 12T free tensioner pulley. belt is still normal size.

I have an 18T for the rear which could potentially give 2.77 but (belt length becomes and issue. )for now, I think this is enough.



Pretty nice. holds opposite lock pretty well.  Still hard to set up a DIB, to vague in the damper response.

RE-DRB 1.8CS SSG HT OD - Chassis Details

I am finally finishing the DRB and the small details make all the difference.

Check the drive shaft cups. The BD5 Welc-Spec one way from Yokomo is a bit ugly. The blue is a bit off and the machined parts don't really match. The drive cups are also raw alloy.

I had some old Drift package blue protectors, so I glued them in. The finish the front end nicely. The second thing I did, was the body mounts. I already had a spare set of Square brand, black alloy, adjustable posts. So I cut the original posts to accept these. They just make things smoother.

I'm all for easy... especially where body posts and pins are concerned. Tiny silver body pins SUCK! I utilized these Square brand, light, but large grip-able, alloy pins. Again matching well.

Down the back, I've also kept things under control. As soon as I lay things on a table... they are lost. So I added an Eagle tether from a set of body pins (I used the blue pins on Square cables) which allows my battery retainer to always stay somewhere useful. I used the other end to keep the aerial under control.

 Keyence Motor cables were already fitted with Kawada connectors, The length is now just right to run under the chassis. Super clean. I'll clean up the servo soon with an overdose bell-crank.

I really hate wires, I've managed to hide things pretty well. Even with Yokomo light kit, 2 telemetry sensors, ESC and battery terminals. Spur gear sensor has a servo mounting crank... Sanwa users note! I just need a couple more blue screws. The red anodized ones stand out like a beacon.

I still need access for the ESC interface too so I can't be too clean. I had an old play-station photograph sticker I added for fun.

The last thing I added is a drivers head. When I see rc cars without drivers in pictures and videos, they simply look strange. I somehow managed to have leftover parts to somehow make an arm to the centre of the chassis. The DRB upper deck has two spare holes for something. I'll use one. I have to redo the visor and paint the helmet,

But for now all thats left is spring setting. THE RE-Xtreme RE-DRB IS DONE!

I'll take it outside tomorrow for some real shots.