V2 - Wheel Selection

So... The wheel dilemma on the V2 continues, but choice is awesome. 



A little while ago I put the feelers out for some more of my favourite +12 rims. Top line has discontinued the N-Model Mars Drift Fighters in +12 so I am trying to find a few sets around the place. 

Tijs came to the rescue with this fluro yellow set. And as it turns out... are a pretty close match for the D1 Spec V1. Maybe a touch of smoke will tone them down just enough.

But the bonus is these +13 Spice TE37s . They have a seriously deep center which is more like an Advan T6 rim. 

So I have the following selections of Top Line Drift Fighter Mars N1 +12 OFF 

4 x White
4 x Yellow 
4 x Black with metal flake
4 x White painted Dark Blue
2 x White painted Red
2 x Chrome

But I'd like to complete the Chrome and Red sets. Red is Painted from a white set.

So now I have a few variations. I can throw in the mix. It's working out pretty well.

The V1 looks good with White, Black and Yellow.

The V2 looks good with Black and Blue ( and the 2 reds which I need two more of.)

About the only other super wide rims I have are these metal beasts that are about +13 also. They are indeed awesome.

ARTHIRTIWAN

The R31 is a chunky machine. StreetJam's version takes that chunky style to the cool school.

It only takes a couple of tiny extras to add some flair (or Flare) to the Sykline.

The colour really contrasts on the camera. perhaps better than in person.

these are just some small tips.

Street Jam' s smaller size TE37 are a perfect match.

A mini shoot with the RWB.

It's hard to tell which is bigger.

The shape of the porsche plays tricks on you while the R31 is solid.

While the RWB is set to return to the shelf for a while, this Skyline will be mashing it up.

Rippit Sunday S-Session

Silviarmageddon continues... issan-ichiyon-ichigo

All three cars are massive wide bodied beasts.

All with touches of Speed Way Pal, Uras, Admiration and more.

My session started like this. 

With the matt black DRS-10 with  +9 not even close to filling the guards on the s14. I useually run +12 on this machine.

You may notice some dust.

This surface is terrible. Epoxy dust has us choking.

 13 14 rears both run the uras drag wing. only the red beast has some custom work.

including the undesirable kind. The red beast has some 300 hours of track time. thats a lot of crashes. Still looks pretty good.

A fun afternoon.

Chiba ne! - san-qyu san-qyu!

RE-Xtreme @ Rippit Video

https://vimeo.com/72646782


Just a little play time.

New Project - Legend Tribute.

Scandinavian flick, Tommy Makinen and all that jazz. He is one of the Legends of 90's Rally. This will be a tribute.

 My good mate, legend ... Allen.  Calls me. do you want anything from RC Champ?

What kind of a question is that!!! of course!

then he sends me some teaser shots.

You know what I mean.

I was recently looking at the Evo III as my next project so I got him to pick me up one along with some

DRS12

and some BRW03.

Should be funky!

Basic Wheel Offset Solutions

Hey there... Lets look at some wheel solutions for that perfect "Stance".

How can I stuff the biggest/deepest rims under my rc body? the answer is always three fold; Tyre Sidewall/profile, Offset and Camber.

While some people don't like the latter, I am a proven believer that an rc "drift" chassis can run just as well with a lot or a little.  Anyway...

If you don't know the offset, just pad the spacers in the rear until the match the hub.

A 1/10 RC wheel is 52mm diameter and 26mm wide.

in RC

0 offset is actually a hub face of 5mm from the outside edge (usually) but these days it's better to measure 21mm from the back as different lips are being added.

0 offset allows 5mm for the hex nut to be fitted and still remain flush with the wheel rim.

the material around the center hole is usually 2mm thick. so lets check

far right is a Yokomo Drift Package Enkei NT-03  OFFSET +3 which is usually pretty stock on Yokomo.
there is a 16mm spacer to the rim flush +2mm of hub = 18mm .... 21mm-18 = OFFSET +3 or

5mm +3mm = actually 8mm to the hub face.

Track will increase 3mm each side over the Offset 0 wheel.

get your width of spacer again to the inside rim 

this white top line wheel is Offset 12.
there is a 7mm spacer to the rim flush +2mm of hub = 9mm .... 21mm-9 = OFFSET +12

the silver M-type wheel is offset 10 but it has an extra 1mm lip making it 27mm wide.

there is a 9mm spacer to the rim flush +2mm of Hub = 11mm .... 21mm-11mm = Offset+10
If you calculated this from the outside face lip it would be different.

Offset 0
Offset +3 Track will increase 3mm each side over the Offset 0 wheel.
Offset +12 track will increase 12mm over an Offset 0 wheel. 24mm total, this makes things more stable, so Settings need changing as this will also effect spring rates as the pressure on a wider location will change.

If you need more to fill say a 200mm body then add some spacers
or

I love those wheels but they are the wrong offset. ... the simple answer is spacers. The RC square spacer system runs from 4mm to 8mm with thick and thin shims that optionally screw together for strength and they are clamp hubs for good setting on the drive shafts. I thoroughly recommend this. You can go wider easily and adjust within 0.5mm. 

If you want to go narrower. There are a few 3mm spacers on the market from RC926 etc, but sometimes the shaft still only accepts 4mm, so you have to drill the wheel slightly. Also the wheel hub may touch your suspension so be careful. usually 4mm is the standard minimum.

For intermediate level users, increasing track width and scrub radius should start to be considered in setup.

As usual effecting one thing changes many others. so getting that exact look, may change chassis behavior. 

This is an example of my setup for my FC. At full compression the body is sanded to allow a almost zero gap to the tyre. It never rubs even as suspension arc rises. 4mm hub and +9 wheel with RC926 tyre.
This tyre has a round sidewall so I cant get any wider.

If I run Yokomo R2 in this config, there is no way they fit. +6 is about the best I can do as the sidewall is MUCH higher.

So sidewall is important and companies like Street Jam and RC-Art offer 60 degree and 45 degree stretch look tyres. so you can get an extra mm without touch.

These are  Kazama FXR +10 which are 1mm wider than the Top Line +9. Still no touch.

Then recently there are wheels from overdose, M's and topline that give more poke with an exposed rim.

These M's M-type +10 @ 27mm wide give an extra 1mm (only on the outer edge.) for a wider impression.

FXR +10 with Street Jam 45 degree + 7 degree camber


I also run about 7degree of camber on the reargiving about 3mm of extra clearance. (note a crazy 13deg on the front) all these things effect many other components like drive shaft length and turnbuckle lengths etc so changing camber can only go so far with stock components.

note** asphalt tyre wear is flat for full contact patch. On carpet you need to choose the tyre that best matches your camber and castor settings with more scrutiny.

M-type +10 with Street Jam 45 degree + 7 degree camber

There is still a gap for suspension compression.

You could simply buy a wider body, but we all want that perfect look and performance. sometimes they aren't compatible, but we try our best.

You can also look into adjustable suspension arms and knuckles to push wheels out or in to maintain track.
there are lots of products (like Active Hobby) on the market these days.

Russ.

 

Wheel Choices

This may be a reflection on my own style, but having lived in Japan for 10 years and being around the tuning car scene, the drift / time attack style has definitely got inside my head.

My selection of RAYS wheels no doubt aligns with my like of Japan's ultimate wheel company.  

However some of favourite designs are those of Advan and Enkei, but their cast mouldings often have people crying about that as inferior.

In the RC world. My TOP LINE selection comprises and has comprised of more that a dozen sets of MARS Fighters and others of varying offset. Maybe the olympic gold medal wheel of RC. hehe.

I always find myself coming back to these.

a simple color change is just a quick change away.

Here is a tip for beginners. White wheels will help you improve. Visibility of steering angle can help those eyes.

No matter ho many wheels you try, personal preference is a fickle thing. love or hate. While I love Yokomo products, their shallow offset wheels often stop me purchasing from their wheel range.  These "Yokomo Style" Enkei wheels unfortunately are copies with a deeper offset.

So what about the JZX. D1 competitor and JZX tuner Kazama Auto exist in the RC arena, so perhaps I should run their FXR wheel. 

Or perhaps the Rays Gram Lights Ultimate as were sponsored to their D1 Lexus.

in 2012 Powervehicles ran TE37SL so these Spice wheels could be used. but somehow don't really match the chrome.

This year they switch to Gram Lights 57D-R in black, so I tried on these super wide monsters

I'm just lucky I can have this many choices for relatively little money. Choose wisely.