Super GT-D FD3s RX-7

RE-Amemiya M7 RE-Xtreme RC Tamiya Super GT-D FD3s RX7! What a delicious mouthful.

 New Top Line Wheels. +9 and +12 rear mounted on my Yokomo DRB. this body cannot go lower. It's on the chassis towers as it is.

That leave space for suspension squat and massive angle! The body is tiny and much more scale than any of the other FD3s out there.

The rear mixi stance is not really necessary, I actually got these wheels for another body but they look great on here.

For a more subtle approach, these Spice TE37SL are pretty cool too.

These wheels have a lot of space inside and would be good for brake disks if you wanted to do that. These are +8 offset so they tuck a little.

They look not bad on here, but I think a white car would have a place for these. I have one of those too.

The real wheels are these white monsters. they are really the perfenct match for the car, but It may end up being one of those bodies where I can run green and white. I'll try that later.

Whites are +9 at the rear. 3mm make a difference. I've also changed my body pins to Eagle Racing clips and Square Brand cables.  Sometimes mix and match is good.

 The contrast of the white looks pretty good.

My driver is inside. Looks complete. maybe I'll add a small f1 body and steering wheel or some custom arms hooked up to the steering.

The remnants of the RE-R spur gear remain. I'm so happy I can run these bodies properly.

RE-R vs DRB Comparison

Yokomo DRB Hyper Drive SSG HT 1.8
vs
D-Like RE-R Weight Shift Master (X) Silver Version 1.67

Here is a look at the same type of performance. High end drift chassis.

Similarities.
Front Midship, Twin Belt 4WD Counter Steer Drift Machines.
Modified for CS with similar ratios, Front One Way Axle, Rear Rigid Axle.
45~50 Degrees of steering angle steering servo mid mounting.

Cross mounted battery position.
front belt has no tensioner, rear belt have tensioner.

STEERING 

RE-R had to be modified to get super fast response. The CE-RX steering was installed.
Basically now they both get a twin rail steering setup. Pivoting from a rearward position.

Presentation wise the DRB kicks ass here, but I have already found some parts shaking loose, so I'll need some thread lock on those. no drama. Both use Drift package style suspension.

RE-R and DRB require upgrades for castor and steering arms. these are interchangeable.

Major Differences in the centre chassis.
RE-R is simple. The Alloy pieces are 4. Motor and front axle are a single piece.
DRB has 14 in the main frame alone!!!!

I love the simplicity of the RE-R but the mounting of the belt pulleys above the motor is not ideal.
with the motor moving up or down you are really changing the CG with a small pinion. I actually found the motor was quite high with a small pinion.

The DRB is much more adjustable in this area. The motor is always LOW and the weight is kept low in the car. They definitely behave differently. A car that rolls a little more can be a bit more lively that one that pivots using harder springs etc.

This is totally user choice.

BUT

RE-R cannot only run a limited body selection as the spur gear really is high. I cut a slot 40mm long in my Tamiya RX7 body to accommodate the spur from the RE-R. In the DRB it's way below body line.

If you like low bodies, you can almost ignore a whole bunch of chassis from your list.

Almost all RE-R runners cut their bodies high, run less effective gearing or a BIG CHASER or Giant almost 1/9th scale Hachi-Roku

Rear section is very similar.  It'd be hard to pick them at a glance. But the DRB is not supplied with a bumper at all and mounting one looks difficult. You may be able to hang a bumper under the rear post.

RE-R is not supplied with a bumper like the DRB, but it does accommodate Drift package items and the Street Jam diffuser fits also. This is an option.

DRB battery clamp is good. Belt drive runs on the left. RE-R on the Right. CS gears are similar, but the DRB runs a smaller setup.

RE-R reommends to use bigger pulleys for CS rather than smaller ones. 20/32 vs DRB 15/??

 Originally these were all 50:50 drive. It's only been in the last 6 months that packages are being offered already set up for CS or FCD

This can be a 10,000 yen or $100 dollar saving from before. Basic parts required are One Way, Rear axle, Drive Pulley and belt, then Spur and Pinion to match.

D.I.Y is going to cost extra.

So the RE-R is a Drift Package conversion. And therefore, it ends up being converted into something like the RC-ART CE-RX with Yokomo suspension.

If you already have a TUNED drift package. Then you will still need 50000+ to build one CS capable.

The DRB is around 68000 with Camber maybe 75000 retail, but there are many deals around. It's pretty perfect out of the box.

Compare it to a CE-RX white wolf and I'd say extremely similar. It totally comes down to your preference.

The only major draw back of most midship designs is the spur gear. If you like low sleek body designs. Do get a DRB.

Both are top level and allow you run at the pointy end of the field.

The way I see it at the moment.

These are the TOP Japanese belt chassis. I've driven most and seen them all in action.

3 belt designs...
Street Jam OTA-R3R
Kazama Auto GP-XR (essentially the same as R3R)
Entry level is OT-AR31.
Tamiya T-06 with conversion. Eagle/Overdose

2 belt designs...
ARD CER-D11
RC ART CE-RX White Wolf

RC ART CE-R Chrimson Lightening
D-Like RE-R Conversion
Yokomo DRB HT SSG Hyper Drive. (early models had issues so should be avoided)
Tamiya VDF

There are a heap of Tamiya and Yokomo conversions out there too.

Enjoy your selection.  

RE-DRB 1.8CS SSG HT OD - Chassis Details

I am finally finishing the DRB and the small details make all the difference.

Check the drive shaft cups. The BD5 Welc-Spec one way from Yokomo is a bit ugly. The blue is a bit off and the machined parts don't really match. The drive cups are also raw alloy.

I had some old Drift package blue protectors, so I glued them in. The finish the front end nicely. The second thing I did, was the body mounts. I already had a spare set of Square brand, black alloy, adjustable posts. So I cut the original posts to accept these. They just make things smoother.

I'm all for easy... especially where body posts and pins are concerned. Tiny silver body pins SUCK! I utilized these Square brand, light, but large grip-able, alloy pins. Again matching well.

Down the back, I've also kept things under control. As soon as I lay things on a table... they are lost. So I added an Eagle tether from a set of body pins (I used the blue pins on Square cables) which allows my battery retainer to always stay somewhere useful. I used the other end to keep the aerial under control.

 Keyence Motor cables were already fitted with Kawada connectors, The length is now just right to run under the chassis. Super clean. I'll clean up the servo soon with an overdose bell-crank.

I really hate wires, I've managed to hide things pretty well. Even with Yokomo light kit, 2 telemetry sensors, ESC and battery terminals. Spur gear sensor has a servo mounting crank... Sanwa users note! I just need a couple more blue screws. The red anodized ones stand out like a beacon.

I still need access for the ESC interface too so I can't be too clean. I had an old play-station photograph sticker I added for fun.

The last thing I added is a drivers head. When I see rc cars without drivers in pictures and videos, they simply look strange. I somehow managed to have leftover parts to somehow make an arm to the centre of the chassis. The DRB upper deck has two spare holes for something. I'll use one. I have to redo the visor and paint the helmet,

But for now all thats left is spring setting. THE RE-Xtreme RE-DRB IS DONE!

I'll take it outside tomorrow for some real shots.

The Martians!

My eyes have been taking a hammering recently, trying to spot black wheels from a distance and see how much angle you are running from miles away is a bit tricky.

The solution is white or super bright wheels! These Top Line, Drift Fighter [Mars] N Models are +9 for the front and +12 for the rear.

They will find a home on the Mazdaspeed speed 210mm FD3s, but for now I have them on the Super GT-D fd and they look awesome poking out!

Mounted on spice carpet tyres with O rings of course.

RE-DRB 1.8CS SSG HT OD - Chassis

So I collected some missing pieces to finish off the DRB chassis. Basically I needed a Keyence long brush-less motor cable.

Above picture was a work in progress.

In my shakedown the other day, the esc and servo were on the same side. Not ideal for balance. So now I have everything where it should be. Left side has the Sanwa SRG-BL servo, centre has the Sanwa RX-461 Receiver and Right has the Keyence Tachyon ESC. I'll get it one the corner weight scales next time I'm at Max One to check how close it is.

I added a bigger battery release pin in blue to match the chassis and tidied up as best I could.

Eventually I'll re-wire some more things and change the battery plugs. I hate wires...

It's really small without the bumper at the moment.  I think it looks great!

Maybe I'll try and modify a rear street jam diffuser eventually for the rear, and a soft bumper up front, but right now it's pretty close to complete. Springs will be next. Longer and Softer. I might stick to white colour though.

I've mounted the Tamiya Super GT-D RX-7 which is a super small body. I added some Spice TE-37 SL in Bronze Metallic. More on these later.

RE-RX-7 @ MAX ONE

Big thanks to Kuni for making this. I love the slow mo!

It was a nice birthday present.

This is the D-Like RE-R CS 1.67 With CE-RX steering Keyence 7.5T Brushless and Sanwa MT4

RE-DRB 1.8 CS SSG HT OD - Shakedown @ Max One

Yokomo RE-DRB 1.8 CS Hogh Traction Overdose Shakedown @ Max One with Inital D Project D Takumi 7.

Of course the splitter is big and already broken where the original cracks in this old body were. but it's holding together well.

I'll start with the body. I originally tried it with 3mm Offset Advan RS wheels, but I couldn't see the black rims well. It's a problem at this dark course.

Because the DRB is not adjustable for wheelbase in the front, only at the rear, I had to trim the front wheel arches to allow for +9 offset clearance with 8 degree camber. The turnbuckles are at maximum position at the front and back. 

I could run +12 on the rear but for now this is ideal with the Top Line Moon N model Wheels

The RE-Amemiya style slashes look great with the SpeedHunters / RE-Xtreme / and G-Reddy logos. As this was just the shakedown for the chassis, The body posts are new and as yet untrimmed.

LED lights look great through the sleek lights but I may increase the opening angle for more illumination. But during mid-drift It looks AWESOME! The bright Yellow is great and easy to see exactly what the car is doing.

So how is the Yokomo DRB out of the box. I must say, very impressive! It feels a little different to the RE-R. Not as "punchy" but that's just gearing. I also have to use a little more brake and accel. But this is on the normal spring settings from Yokomo. The slow rebound pistons don't really work with these springs. The whole car needs to be softer for carpet. It tends to stay flat rather than bite into the corners.

But it's great. Everything simply works. I had a small issue with gear belt pulley (that wasn't tight) but after tightening the grub screw, it was ALL ok.

I was very tentative at first, but soon found it was easy to control and I was joining in the fun on a busy night.

At the end I was having fun in some tandem and triple and quad drifting. Crashes are fun too! Gomen Nasai.

So now I need to get some springs and then practice more. That is all. I didn't take any pictures of the chassis because it's not set up as I want it. I need a longer brush-less sensor cable before I show it.

I've updated the full build here -> RE-DRB